Kathmandu · Nepal
We can't wait to welcome you to Nepal. Thank you for making this journey so far to celebrate with us. We hope this will be an adventure of a lifetime for you, and we'll try our best to make sure that's true. We've put together this guide to get you prepared for your trip.
First Things First
US passport holders have two easy options. Most travellers simply get a visa on arrival; if you'd rather not fly without a visa in hand, you can apply by mail through the Nepali Embassy in Washington, D.C. beforehand.
Granted right at Kathmandu airport. To skip the longer queue, fill the online form within 15 days before you fly, then bring the confirmation, a passport photo, and USD cash to pay.
Apply through the Embassy of Nepal, Washington D.C. Complete the online ETA application (your application ID must begin with "M" to be eligible for an embassy visa), then mail your documents in.
| Duration | Cash / check / money order | Debit card (+2% +$0.25) | Credit card (+3%) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 15 days | $30.00 | $30.85 | $30.90 |
| 30 days | $50.00 | $51.25 | $51.50 |
| 90 days | $125.00 | $127.75 | $128.75 |
Getting to Nepal
All flights land at Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM). There are no non-stops from the US; everyone connects once, usually through the Middle East, East Asia, or India. Total travel time runs roughly 18–24 hours each way.
The Middle East hubs are the smoothest single-stop path from the East Coast.
Routing west across the Pacific through Asia is usually faster from the West Coast.
Once You're Here
A few things that'll make your first hours in Nepal smooth and stress-free.
The airport is small and easy to navigate, though baggage claim can be slow, so be patient. A couple of customs rules worth knowing so you don't get held up:
You can exchange some cash right outside arrivals if you like. Roughly $1 ≈ 150 NPR. Hotels, restaurants and many shops take cards, but keep cash for taxis and small vendors. Locals also use digital wallets like Fonepay and eSewa.
Both carriers, Ncell and Nepal Telecom (NTC), have desks at the airport, and eSIMs are available. A tourist SIM is well worth it:
In most restaurants, resorts, hotels and cafés, and with many drivers, English is widely understood, so language shouldn't be a problem. Now and then an accent might be a little tricky to follow, but you'll get by easily.
Nepal is UTC +5:45, yes, the famous 45-minute offset, about 10¾ hours ahead of US Eastern. Jet lag is real and can take a few days to shake.
Kathmandu is crisp and dry, with warm sun by day around 18–20°C (mid-60s°F), but mornings and evenings turn chilly, dropping to 3–5°C (upper 30s°F) at night. These are the clearest mountain-view days of the year.
Just like Uber back home, Nepal has great ride apps: Pathao, Yango and InDrive all work much the same way. You'll see two-wheeler (bike/scooter) and four-wheeler (car) options.
Where to Stay
A shortlist across the areas you'll want to be near. Thamel keeps you in the buzz; Marriott and Gokarna are calmer and more resort-like. Rates move with the season, so book ahead, as our dates are busy.
Bright, modern Marriott-family hotel right at the edge of Thamel, walkable to shops, cafés and Durbar Square, with a rooftop bar.
View hotel →A stylish boutique hotel in a quiet, central neighbourhood, with a garden, pool and easy reach of Thamel and the city centre.
View hotel →A landmark five-star built around a historic Rana palace wing, with lush gardens and a central Durbar Marg location.
View hotel →Full-service five-star in Naxal, central and polished, with a spa, pool and excellent breakfast. Reliable comfort after long flights.
View hotel →A serene escape in a protected forest with a golf course and spa, on the city's green edge, about 20 min from Boudha. Quiet and unique.
View hotel →An award-winning living museum of Newari craft, with hand-carved woodwork throughout and one of the country's finest restaurants on site. A notch above budget, but unforgettable.
View hotel →The Celebrations
A celebratory evening hosted by Sonika's parents. Expect a big, warm crowd, plenty of food and drinks, and lots of dancing, a joyful way to kick things off.
A shorter, smaller gathering (2–3 hours), mostly for friends. We'll chat, dance, and get to know one another before the big day.
No event scheduled. Plan this day to explore Kathmandu, or simply relax.
The big one, a long, joyful, wonderfully hectic full day of traditional rituals and music, a few happy tears from the bride's side, and wonderful food and drink throughout. Keep the whole day free.
Hosted by Asmod's family, mostly their friends and relatives. Expect great food, drinks, and music to close the celebrations. After this, the mountains are yours.
For the receptions, the cocktail, and the wedding, keep it festive and celebratory:
Asmod and I would love to gift each of you traditional Nepali clothing to wear on the wedding day: Daura Suruwal for the men, and a saree and blouse for the women.
If you're interested, please add your measurements to our shared sheet. It includes a reference video showing exactly how to measure, with separate tabs for men and women.
Add your measurements →Explore
Seven UNESCO World Heritage sites sit within the valley alone. These are the ones we'd send our closest friends to first; Boudhanath is Asmod's favourite.
One of the largest Buddhist stupas on earth, ringed by monasteries and prayer wheels. Loveliest at dusk, when butter lamps glow and monks circle it.
Open in Maps →The "Monkey Temple" on a hilltop, with the painted Buddha eyes gazing over the whole city. Climb the steps for the best valley panorama.
Open in Maps →Nepal's holiest Hindu temple on the Bagmati River, with sadhus, ghats and living ritual. Profound and moving; visit respectfully.
Open in Maps →The old royal plaza of temples, palaces and the home of the living goddess (Kumari). The historic heart of the city.
Open in Maps →Across the river in Lalitpur, arguably the finest Newari architecture and metal-craft in the valley, plus a superb museum.
Open in Maps →A perfectly preserved medieval city of brick and wood, potters' squares and the famous juju dhau curd. Worth a half-day at least.
Open in Maps →The lively tourist quarter: trekking gear, pashminas, singing bowls, rooftop bars and live music. Great for evening wandering and gifts.
Open in Maps →A hilltop Tibetan Buddhist monastery above Boudha with gardens and valley views, a calm morning away from the crowds.
Open in Maps →After Dark
If you're up for a night out, Thamel is the heart of it. Nepal's clubs are lively, modern, and genuinely fun.
The largest nightclub in Nepal and the centre of Thamel's scene, a purpose-built venue with a huge sound system. Its weekly "Nova Friday" is the busiest night in the city.
Open in Maps →The other name on everyone's lips, with a concert-style stage, top mixologists and a long-running reputation among locals and travellers alike. It even made DJ Mag's global rankings.
Open in Maps →A stylish rooftop lounge and club with city views, cocktails and a smart crowd, good for a slightly more upscale night out.
Open in Maps →Eat Well
The best way to know Nepal is through its food. Here's what to order, and the spots locals actually rate for each. Reserve the fine-dining tables ahead, especially around our dates.
Nepal's obsession: juicy pockets of spiced buffalo, chicken or veg with a fiery tomato-sesame achar. Try them steamed, fried (kothey), or swimming in soup (jhol).
Where: Narayan Dai Ko Momo (a valley institution since 1962) · Thamel Momo Hut · Bagmati Sweets for the best paneer momo
Rice, lentil soup, seasonal curries, greens and pickles, endlessly refillable and endlessly comforting. "Dal bhat power, 24 hour," as the trekkers say.
Where: Bhojan Griha (a restored mansion with folk music) · Krishnarpan at Dwarika's for the special-occasion version
The valley's own feast: beaten rice with choila (grilled spiced meat), bara (lentil patties), chatamari (rice crêpe) and more. A whole culture on one plate.
Where: Newa Lahana (cultural setting, servers in Newari dress) · Harati Newari Restaurant (famous chatamari) · Honacha on Patan Durbar Square (a hidden local legend)
A refined thali from the Thak Khola region, with distinct dal, tender meat, black-eyed beans and tangy pickles. Many say it's the best-balanced meal in Nepal.
Where: Daura Thakali (widely rated the best in town) · Jimbu Thakali by Capital Grill · Lete Thakali Kitchen
Marinated meat grilled over charcoal until smoky and tender, best with a cold Gorkha beer.
Where: Bota:Momo & Sekuwa Corner · Fast Food Newari Khaja Ghar in Dillibazar
A crisp, ring-shaped rice-flour "doughnut," lightly sweet, a festival staple you'll spot at every celebration, including ours. Best fresh from a street griddle.
Bhaktapur's legendary creamy sweet buffalo-milk curd, set in clay pots. Buy it from any dairy shop around Bhaktapur Durbar Square; worth the trip on its own.
Beyond the Valley
Nepal rewards a longer stay. Asmod's tried-and-tested route is Kathmandu → Pokhara → Chitwan → back to Kathmandu. Rest in the valley for a day or two first, then head out. These are the easiest, most beautiful add-ons after the 13th.
Why go: Nepal's lakeside resort town, with the Annapurna range mirrored in Phewa Lake. Sunrise over the mountains from Sarangkot, boating, the World Peace Pagoda, and some of the world's best adventure sports.
Why go: A ridgetop village on the valley rim famous for its sunrise Himalaya panorama. On clear December mornings you can see from Annapurna to Everest. The easiest mountain-view escape, ideal for a single overnight.
Why go: Subtropical lowland jungle for a genuine wildlife safari, with one-horned rhinos, crocodiles, deer, and if you're lucky a Bengal tiger. Gentle winter jungle walks and river boat rides, plus free park walking tours.
Why go: Short on time but want the giants? A mountain flight ("breakfast at Everest") from Kathmandu is a 3 to 4 hour round trip with close-up Everest views, and Buddha Air runs a dedicated one. Cheaper trick: grab a north-side window seat on the Kathmandu to Pokhara hop for free Himalaya views.
For the Trekkers
If you've come this far, walk into the mountains. These routes reach real high-mountain viewpoints, from a few days up to about a week. Nights are spent in cosy family-run teahouse lodges, with a warm bed, dal bhat and a stove, so no camping needed. December is cold but famously clear.
The classic first trek. Rhododendron forest, stone-stair Gurung villages, and the celebrated Poon Hill sunrise (3,210 m) over Annapurna and Dhaulagiri.
The one Asmod has done and recommends, a quieter high-ridge trail climbing to 4,500 m right beneath the fishtail peak of Machhapuchhre. Big views, fewer crowds.
The classic Annapurna trek, walking right into a high glacial amphitheatre ringed by giants and standing beneath Annapurna I at 4,130 m. Unforgettable, and doable for fit first-timers with time to spare.